Kohana Slow Roasted Coffee Review and Interview
by James Stoker on 5-9-2011 • Category: Coffee Products • 1 comments
Patience is a virtue typically lost in today’s society. Even within the world of fine gourmet coffee, the average consumer wants what they want and they want it now. Austin based Kohana Coffee takes a step back from the hustle and bustle of the morning rush and allows for time to smell the java. Kohana self-identifies as “slow roasted coffee” and boasts the benefits of their elongated preparation method. The Kohana mantra of Sip, Savor, Explore has served them well as they have set out to recreate the rich full flavors the owners first discovered while on vacation in Hawaii.
I had the good fortune to be handed a sample size of three different roasts to review, sip, savor, and explore for myself. The mix was described by the roaster as being unconventional, yet I enjoy being able to taste the full spectrum of a coffee roaster. Representing Kohana’s medium roast was their Ethiopian Sidamo, along with two dark roast: Ethiopian Harrar and a blend labeled “100% Hawaiian Select”. All three roasts were packaged in 12oz. aroma sealed slick pouches with a tropical flower print. The presentation is distinct and professional. Each bag is printed with a short blurb about the company and small circular sticker serves to indicate the individual roast.
I began with the coffee I believed myself to be the most familiar with from other roasters, the Ethiopian Sidamo. The bean is grown organically in high elevation and washed from the Oromia Coffee Farmer Co-op. Even having been air sealed, I found that the aroma of the roast to be subdued and subtle. My brew met my level of expectation, a light body with sharp fruitiness and mild undertones. Tastey. Once the sharp citrus taste subsides, a more calming cooler aftertaste develops, which makes it easier to justify having another cup or two… or three… or pot.
The Ethiopian Harrar is another one of my favorites from various Chicago roasters, and I was interested to see how Kohana stacked up. Like it’s Sidamo cousin, the dry processed Biftu Genema Harrar is organically grown. Unlike the Sidamo, the Harrar’s aroma packs a punch. This is a big old bag of slap-yo-momma coffee possessing an overpowering bouquet aroma that jolts you to attention. The taste is far more at ease; dark, earthy and nutty with a smooth light weight, but plenty of body. Elements of its spice linger on the pallet, which serve as a pleasant note to go out on.
I was most interested in the 100% Hawaiian Blend. Kohana clearly considers this to be its signature roast. The entire business is modeled after the Hawaiian style of coffee preparation. This roast is a wet processed coffee from the Waialua Estate on the North Shore Oahu, the bean that started in all for Kohana. Yet I was somewhat under-whelmed. The brew was dark, rich, smooth and pleasant. I better than decent cup of coffee but with no real wow factor. I had difficulties distinguishing any particular flavor to grasp onto. Perhaps my expectations were too high. Perhaps my type-A personality prevents me from being able to slow down and appreciate the subtleties of the slow roasted tropical blend. But for my money, I much prefer the two Ethiopian roast that provided a clear and more vibrate set of flavors.
All and all I was quiet impressed with Kohana’s presentation and product. I sat down (via the inter-web) with Kohana’s roaster Piper Jones. Ms. Jones had been a successful professional with an ad agency prior to delving into the world of coffee. She originally began with Kohana assisting with operational aspects before “falling in love” with the business. She has been slow roasting beans for Kohana for the last 3 years.
I asked her about the decision to stress the slow roasting method. “The slow roasting initially was a way to distinguish ourselves from the large/fast roasters we had all come to know.” And when it comes to roasting, believe me Kohana knows what they are doing. Ms. Jones slipped into lecture mode while explaining the key factors in determining a roasting method for each individual bean. The short version is that these people have put in a lot of time and thought into perfecting their roasts. She explained, “Our intent is to buy beans that actually taste good and slow down the [roasting] process to coax out the best characteristics.”
When it comes to buying those beans, Ms. Jones explained the pride Kohana takes in the relationship it has established with their farmers. Kohana takes extra care to learn about the estates their beans are coming from. Taking advantage of frequent site visits to increase the mutual understanding between farmer and roaster. “We studied [the grower’s] agricultural practices, craftsmanship and have formed deep relationships with these people.” Kohana recognizes the full scope of the process, not simply purchasing a crop, but benefiting a community, “We utilize the opportunity of site visits to not only discuss our needs but to educate ourselves on the farmers needs and what is important not only to them but to their community. We monitor impacts on the climate, challenges with insects and other factors that affect their crop yields and livelihoods. We love to be able to support their efforts as they do for us and we truly value the relationships.”
Ms. Jones cautions people concerned with only purchasing labeled fair trade coffee to not get overly hung up on terminology. “The term Direct Trade can be somewhat ambiguous these days,” she explains. “We strive to have the most direct associations with our growers and are now strategically concentrating on certain regions. These grower relationships are key to special projects we’re setting up now.”
Still it all comes down to having a product worth pursuing. I was interested to see if there were any growing pains building a consumer base. “We quickly became aware of those that wanted to savor the experience of great coffee.” Ms. Jones credits the preexisting foodie movement as a crucial factor to the success of getting Kohana going, and they seem truly appreciative of their fan base. “To be an integral part in the artisan/craftsman chain of ‘farmer - roaster - barista - consumer’ is what it’s all about for us. We love that people appreciate the passion/dedication it takes to do what we do.”
Good people taking good care to roast great coffee. Kohana is a roast-to-order operation who can be found on www.kohanacoffee.com. As an added bonus to our loyal readers, Kohana is offering a 15% discount to you. Just go to the website and enter in discount promo code ‘Spilling the Beans’ now through June to experience Kohana for yourself.
Special thanks to Piper Jones and Kohana Coffee for sending us coffee and extending a special offer to you.
Cheers,
James
Author Extras
To find more articles by James Stoker, check out his page on the WilmettePatch.com that archives his weekly columns.
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